A visit to Antarctica is often seen as a once in a lifetime experience, so imagine the thrill of going back for a second taste of the Great White continent
My first visit to Antarctica was such a memorable experience onboard Silversea Silver Endeavour in 2022, I was a little nervous that anything else would not compare. I should not have worried as Antartica delivers every time
Our crossing of the Drake this time on Ponant Le Boreal was more akin to a Med cruise, with unexpected glorious sunshine all the way and a flat calm Drake Lake
Remembering that initial thrill of seeing your first ice berg at the end of the Drake I thought would be hard to replicate. Antarctica however had other ideas. Looming out of the mist on day 2, a giant tabular ice berg the size of a city block appeared, larger than anything I had seen on my previous visit
This second trip to Antarctica would stop at different places, with only one repeat from my previous visit. Even then we landed in a different spot with a penguin encounter that will be etched in my mind forever
Aitcho Island
Lots of feeding whales and playful penguins, plus tabular ice bergs with that turquoise blue tinge like giant city structures floating by
Portal Point
The Mirror flat water reflects the beauty of the bergs and glaciers. Landing on basalt rock we make a long snow climb and enjoy a rare encounter with an out of place Emperor Penguin.
Was he somehow taking an OE in the Antarctic Peninsula. A long way from the rest of his whanau, but seemingly comfortable nestled amongst his Gentoo cousins. The marine biologist onboard tells us there have been a few such Emperor encounters this season and nobody is sure why they are so far north
Orne Harbour cruise
Scenic zodiac cruising is such a highlight of an Antarctic day. Seeing Ice bergs rollover for the first time & Humpback whales breaching close by reminds us that we are far from every day life back in New Zealand
Denco island and a hike to a lofty Gentoo colony, 3.5km round trip by steep icy trail. We seemed to be a lot more puffed than our little Penguin hosts who hopped and slid up the hill beside us on their well trodden, Krill stained Penguin highway. We were glad we brought our hiking poles for this one
Paradise Bay zodiac cruising amongst towering ice bergs, sleeping seals and wondrous snow petrels flitting overhead. It was the lack of anything around us that left us so in awe of this place
Flanders Bay on Mauret Island was a plan B as the weather at Port Charcot was not playing ball. What an amazing plan B this place was, serene beauty at its best. A moment to totally embrace the sound of silence amidst the cracking ice. We cruised around in the zodiacs between sleeping leopard seals hanging out on the ice bergs
Penguins, Penguins & more Penguins at Neko harbour. There is a 5 metre rule between the wildlife and visitors, but these little chaps don’t understand that.
Standing still in wonder they waddle past us on their way to the sea or back to the colony, occasionally stopping to look us up and down. Do they wonder at these large red parkered penguins visiting their rookery, or are we just a new distraction that will soon be gone
Our Ponant Emblematic Antartica trip finishes with another plan B as we visit Chiriguanau Bay, home to the most incredible blue towering glaciers and spectacular shaped ice bergs.
As we cruise around in zodiacs we see the mighty glaciers calving and lazy seals reposed on ice bergs taking in the late afternoon sunshine
For the more adventurous amongst us there is a final zodiac trip to see the Volcanic remains of Edinburgh rock. The seas are now chopping up and the wind speeds increasing. The smiles on the faces of the returning adventurers say it all with one last milestone ticked off on this wonderful trip
Our return crossing of the Drake promises to be a very different experience to our journey over, as the captain announces this time we will experience the Drake Shake. A low pressure system is approaching creating a huge swell and the wind speeds are increasing above 40 Knots
Wanting to see the full force of nature we head to Deck 5. If the green sign is out you are welcome on to the bridge on Ponant and the views from there are truly spectacular.
A huge albatross swoops above and below us skipping the waves, barely flapping its wings! In the distance we see three spouts of water as a pod of large fin whales approach.
Before us a large wave drops and a mighty fin whales head pops above it. We get a close up view of one of these mighty leviathans before it disappears beneath the next wave
Three black arched backs dive beneath the waves and are gone from our view. A fantastic reminder that this tempestuous sea lane is natures rugged highway to the rich feeding grounds of Antarctica
Antarctica never fails to deliver, it reminds us of the fragility of our great blue planet and re connects us to the wonders of nature. We guarantee, you will arrive as a visitor and leave as an Ambassador
Things to pack for Antarctica
* Lots of layers including good thermals
* Good waterproof outer layers
* Big Ski goggles, they are much better than sunglasses in the snow and spray
* Waterproof ski gloves and thin inner gloves
* Fingerless gloves for taking pictures on smart phones
* Balaclava
* Thin and thick woollen socks as it pays to have two layers under your boots
* Ski pants that fit over boots
* Hiking poles are handy in the snow hikes
* Binoculars you may use them more onboard spotting wildlife
* Two of everything as you usually do two landings per day so a dry change is useful (headgear as well)
Be open to change. Itineries are based on weather and other factors. Plan A can soon become Plan C in this wild wonderful place? This once in a lifetime trip, now experienced twice, simply left us wanting to return again.
Our advice: Don’t leave it too late in life to see this amazing destination, it will truly open your mind and change your perspective on so many things about our glorious planet
Jeff & Ruth Leckey travelled with APT onboard Ponant Le Boreal on the Emblematic Antarctica itinerary